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It wasn't too many decades ago that when a man dressed for a special date, he fussed a bit with his clothes, combed his hair and splashed some Aqua Velva on his neck and shirt collar. Just like his dad and uncles, he wanted to boost his confidence by adding a pleasant and familiar scent to his wardrobe. Clothes made the man, but finishing up with a bit of fragrance was sure to impress a woman.
A few years later, Brut appeared, in its distinctive dark green packaging. Aramis, with is warm, spicy scent joined the shelves, and then Stetson was born, adding a crisp citrus scent to men's colognes. But other than these names, and a few other recognizable brands, guys were stuck in no-man's land concerning cologne.
Something changed in men's fashion - practical, but standard-cut blue suits now hung in the back of the closet. Finally, men were encouraged to choose individual looks - not just in the workplace, but for casual wear, as well. Shirts, pants, shoes and fragrances got stylish; designed to fit the man, instead of forcing him to look like every other guy on the block.
Men's colognes, in particular, became as important a fashion accessory as his style of watch. What was once a no-thought purchase - usually a gift from a wife or girlfriend -- had become crucial to creating the right look and establishing the right attitude.
Today, with so many choices in fragrances, how should a man choose cologne; one that best fits his style?
Obviously, men choose cologne for two reasons: What smells good to the guy who'll wear it, and price. But beware: A typical "smell" test might not be enough to pick a brand you'll still love in six months. Men and women both tend to get immune to their own scents. And price probably won't be the deciding factor when you select a scent that represents you. Though the cost of a fine cologne make anyone swoon, plenty of popular scents are reasonable for any wallet.
To start searching for cologne, grab a few samples available at most department stores. Pick two or three scents and rotate them for a few days. See how people around you act. Ask the woman in your life how she feels about the new aroma. But trust your instincts, as well. Though your samples all smell sweet, does one brand linger longer in the day? Does one of the samples seem a bit strong, especially when you head indoors after spending part of the day outside?
It's especially important to recognize the subtle and extreme differences in men's scents, according to the Fragrance Foundation, the organization responsible for presenting the Fifi Awards, the Oscars of the industry. Foundation members stress the importance of understanding the properties and differences of cologne and aftershave; they're not interchangeable. Men can select from perfume - the most concentrated of fragrances, designed to apply only to pulse points since it's the longest lasting.
Cologne, too, is concentrated and lasting, but blends natural essential oils, aroma molecules and fixatives. Like perfume, cologne can contain several hundred different ingredients. A tip regarding cologne: Since fragrance rises, you should splash it on from the feet up.
Aftershave, of course, made shaving a more pleasant experience -- at least for the face. Today, it comes in two forms - the traditional stand-by, with astringent qualities to heal small nicks and cuts, and the relatively newer kind meant to moisturize and smooth the skin.
None of the three will last all day, so splash some more on if you think your own scent is overwhelming the fragrance. And if your skin tends to be dry, apply the scent more often.
When sorting through recommendations for men's cologne, consider the following factors:
Scent strength (is it strong, moderate or light);
Recommended age range for the man wearing it (is the cologne suited for a mature man, or a teenager);
Scent life (will it last four hours, or stay fresh close to eight hours);
Recommended use (appropriate for the office, or better-suited for a casual dinner); and
Classification (is citrus its primary undertone, or does the scent seem smoky and sexy).
Of that list, the most important factor tends to depends on where you plan to wear it. Men's colognes - even in the days when Old Spice was the most popular choice - can turn your personal style into a lasting memory. The easiest way to consider what you buy (with now-popular scents) are:
Formal Night Colognes
These colognes jazz up a night out on the town; dressy events where you want to leave just the right impression. A current favorite is Kenzo, by Tokyo. The allure of this fragrance is due to blending tranquil Japanese herbs and plants with scents associated with more frenzied Western world: ginger, lemon, grapefruit, green tea, pink pepper and bitter orange. The complexity of the ingredients blend to make a fragrant mixture that's reminiscent of Tokyo itself. Base price: $25.
Another cologne for formal consideration: Antidote, by Victor & Rolf. Men who wear it say it leaves them feeling they entered old-world Europe, with just enough aroma to fit today's more relaxed world. Mint leaves hint at sophistication, while giving way to spiced black pepper and cinnamon, lifting an undercurrent of sandalwood to your own scent . Base price: $90.
Date Night Colognes
You waited a long time to ask, then get a "yes" with that special woman. Even though you've planned a carefree night out, a wise choice here is Capri Orange by Acqua Di Parma. Ingredients hint of summer nights and warm ocean breezes, by combining Sicilian orange, mandarin and sorrento lemon, blended with caramel and musk. It's at the high end of colognes, but as many men attest, it's worth the cost for the extra confidence it provides, creating a night of not-forgotten memories. Base price: $104.
Diesel Fuel For Lifetime Pour Homme by Diesel, also supplies a dose of confidence on a special night out, without requiring deep pockets. But even though it's light on the wallet, this brand is a hot choice for men looking for an urban and totally masculine scent. Star anise is its foundation for this cologne, mixed with grapefruit, raspberry, lavender and dried woods. Base price: $35.
In The Office Colognes
Attitude by Giorgio Armani fits the man who has regular days where you have to roll up your sleeves and get the job done. A blend of Calabria lemon, coffee absolute, shine cedar, lavender, combine to give any man a shot of bravado, without overdoing it, wearing this bold Italian-style aroma. Base price: $45.90
212 is something new from Caroline Herrara, who's entranced and outfitted women for decades. Though her designs tend to be traditional, she recently created 212, her first men's cologne to excite both critics and the public. She cast aside her usual feel when she introduced the sophisticated and sleek aroma made of grapefruit, ginger, mandarin and sandalwood. 212 gives today's man a sense of subtle power in the workplace. Base price: $50 - $69.
Whatever scent you choose, it's a step in identifying and defining your personal style. Long after a hard day at work, a special night out visiting a favorite jazz club or cheering the home team on in the stands, men's colognes are a lasting way to make a personal, and special, mark.
